In jewellery, setting is the action of fixing stones and diamonds on a piece of jewellery: pendant, ring, earrings… This task is reserved for the setter who has all the necessary skills to carry out this technique in due form. He usually uses a fingernail to ensure an impeccable setting. But what are the main crimping techniques?
THE CLAW CRIMP, THE GRAIN CRIMP AND THE CLOSED CRIMP
The claw setting is the most popular jewellery setting technique because it allows the stone to be set without casting a shadow on the jewel. The procedure is simple: the stones are clamped between several claws. One can generally count between 2 to 8 claws. For the finishing, the setter will use a milling cutter.
The grit or paving setting is mainly intended for small stones that are close together. The method is also carried out using a milling cutter and the finishing will be done with a plier.
The closed setting consists of tightening the stone with a sheet of metal on the frame of the jewel. When all the stones are well positioned, the setter proceeds with the finishing: he cuts the nails and files for a more pleasant finish. For the finishing, one will also use the stall.
THE ILLUSION SETTING, THE INVISIBLE SETTING, THE RAIL SETTING AND THE RAIL SETTING
The illusion setting is a rather unique jewellery setting technique. It consists in making a simulation of a stone using metal. The metal will then be rhodium-plated with the help of the cutter for an optimal brilliance.
In the case of the invisible setting, the metal will fade in front of the stone. The stone will therefore be enhanced. The LS setting proceeds differently. The stone will be surrounded by a thin metal. Finally, for the rail setting, the stones are placed between two metal rails.
THE GROUND CRIMP, THE BAR CRIMP, THE FLANGE CRIMP AND THE TENSION RING
The mass setting is a jewellery setting technique quite similar to the closed setting except that it is reserved for round stones. The latter are placed flush with the metal. For the setting of barrette, several stones are placed side by side between two metal bars.
In the case of a flanged setting, pressure is maintained between the two stones by means of a wire that separates them. And finally, for the tension ring, the stone is supported by the pressure of the metal.